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Jul 27, 2023

95 Best watches for men 2023: G

By Simon de Burton Small watches, ridiculous watches, affordable watches,

By Simon de Burton

Small watches, ridiculous watches, affordable watches, classic watches, smart watches, highly sought-after watches – from Audemars Piguet to Cartier, Patek Philippe to TAG Heuer, and plenty more, we pick the 95 best watches money can buy

We get the sense the world of watches is changing in more ways than one. When people used to google 'best watches for men' the results lacked, shall we say, variety. Nowadays, horology is so much more than Rolex, Omega and Patek Philippe. For a start, there's the MoonSwatch. Yep, no biggie than one. Then there's also the fact that the bubble seems to have burst in terms of people's willingness to pay mad money for a grail watch. Though prices for certain models remain strong, they are at least a bit closer to retail than they were a year ago, and such watches are becoming easier to find on the secondary market.

But the fact that most people will still find themselves on a hiding to nothing if they walk into certain authorised dealers with cash-in-hand to buy the more popular pieces suggests that they could start taking their money elsewhere – which is where this watch guide comes into play. Because there's no shortage of options for anyone who has decided that they don't necessarily have to follow the crowd.

Compiling this year's guide to best watches for men highlights the fact that there are now more good quality, well designed and truly affordable watches on the market than ever before, both from young brands – AVI-8, Farer, Marloe and Spinnaker – and more historic dial names such as Rotary, Certina, Bulova, Hamilton and Orient. They all offer models in the three-figure price range so we'd be very surprised if there isn't at least one you wouldn't consider owning.

Watch makers are also increasingly stepping up to save the planet, too. Maurice Lacroix offers a watch made largely from recycled plastic, Oris is doing its bit to combat fires caused by global warming or Greubel Forsey has abandoned traditional leather straps in favour of ones made from vegetable matter. While such initiatives aren't going to produce massive benefits for the environment, at least they are doing something – and it's telling because buyers really do care so clearly it does pay to stand for something.

Chuck in a bit more cash, and names such as Doxa, Longines, Junghans, Tudor and Rado will be in your orbit. Again, all long-established makers with a strong reputation and storied backgrounds, but still sufficiently affordable to be within reach and, importantly, all offering watches that are actually available to buy without being told to wait your turn.

And, as much as we admire the Swiss watch industry – we really do – it's good to see growing competition from other parts of the world, too. At the high end, the superlative creations of Germany's A. Lange and Sohne are becoming ever more widely appreciated, Japan's Grand Seiko is now seen as a true alternative to some of Switzerland's finest and, after 20 years Bremont's dogged determination to bring watch making home to Britain is finally paying off as the brand unveils its first models powered by the in-house movements being produced in serious numbers at its Henley-on-Thames HQ.

But when it comes to the crunch, only you know what it is about a watch that makes you want to own it. And if you discover it by reading this year's GQ Guide, we will be able to say our work is truly done.

The no-nonsense Rolex Datejust has been around since the end of World War II and has been made and sold in the many millions – but still makes a statement like few others. You’ll never tire of seeing that fluted bezel and cyclops date magnifier, and the hip chronometer-certified movement and Oyster case are more than up to the rigours of daily wear. Interesting Datejust fact: 2022 marked 75 years since brand founder Hans Wilsdorf presented Sir Winston Churchill with the 100,000th Rolex made. It was a Datejust. £8,400 (41mm, steel and gold). At rolex.com

They do say the original is always best, which is why Omega has gone back to its OG Speedmaster, the CK2915, for the essential styling cues of the new eight-model ’57 range (named after the year of the Speedy's launch). That means a broad-arrow hour hand, dot-over-90 bezel, vintage lume and manual winding. But there are modern touches too, such as a twin-mainspring METAS-certified movement, a slimmed-down case and a choice of four dials: a black "sandwich" effort and blue, burgundy or green with applied hour markers. Shame about the date window. £8,700. At omegawatches.com & goldsmiths.co.uk

When Louis Cartier created one of the world's first wrist-worn watches for his Brazilian pilot chum Alberto Santos-Dumont back in 1904, planes were made from wood and canvas and the first cross-Channel flight was five years away. Aviation has changed a bit since – but the essential design of the Cartier Santos Dumont has prevailed; though, like planes, it's grown a bit. Choices range from a quartz-powered ‘economy model’ in steel with leather strap to the first-class Santos Dumont Box limited edition, a platinum-cased mechanical version that's supplied with a pair of white-gold cufflinks. £3,250-£27,100. At cartier.com & goldsmiths.co.uk

If you still think a G-Shock has to be plastic, you haven't seen the GM-B2100 – the first model in the digi-analogue 2100 line to wear a ‘full metal jacket’ thanks to its case, screw-down back and bracelet all being hewn from stainless steel. The watch can be paired with a dedicated app, offers 200 metres water resistance (you’ll never go that deep) and is powered purely by light. Early adopters include G-Shock ambassador Steven Bartlett, the 29-year-old Dragon's Den star and multi-millionaire founder of social media marketing agency Social Chain. From £449. At g-shock.co.uk

Breitling has been making the most of its rich archives lately, not least in calling on the retro looks of its Slow Motion dive watch of the 1960s to create an all-new, vintage-inspired Superocean line. And who better to put his name to a limited edition of a watch built to laugh in the face of water than the king of Breitling's blazing Surf Squad, 11-times World Surf League champ, Kelly Slater? Just 1,000 of the 42mm, orange-dial Slater specials will be made. £4,300. At breitling.com & goldsmiths.co.uk

Seven years on from the New York launch of its original Connected watch, and TAG Heuer's latest Calibre E4 version is, well, smarter than anyone could have imagined back in 2015. Not only do the myriad available face displays make it look like an analogue watch, the Connected's functionality enables it to be used for everything from tracking performance in your fave sport (both in and out of the water) to serving as a mobile gallery for that budding NFT collection you’re suddenly obsessed with. The battery lasts all day, too. From £1,650. At tagheuer.com & goldsmiths.co.uk

Apple's latest aims to compete with the toughest sports-orientated wristwear from specialist manufacturers such as Garmin. Measuring a mighty 49mm (that's like ordering an XXL pizza), the Ultra is said to be "the most rugged, durable and extreme" Apple Watch to date, thanks in part to having a touchscreen made from top-quality sapphire crystal – which the test-to-destruction YouTubers at TechRax only managed to break after repeatedly hitting the watch with a hammer. Oh to be a social media influencer. £849. At apple.com

Tudor is nibbling away at the market shares of its coroneted big brother Rolex – and deservedly so. Just like brand ambassador David Beckham, this new Pelagos 39mm is straight-talking and clean-cut. From the brushed no-nonsense case to big blocky lume markers on the dark sunray dial, the Pelagos absolutely nails it. Reduced to a Goldilocks 39 mm, and stealthily released off-site, the response has been huge and is another example of Tudor's growing hype in watch world. £3,500. At tudorwatch.com & goldsmiths.co.uk

It might be 50 years old, but the fact that the Royal Oak remains one of the hottest watches on the market confirms the truism that good design never goes out of style. Most first-time buyers covet the basic three-hander that's the spit of Gérald Genta's original – but many hardened Oak collectors now judge this perpetual calendar model in full blue ceramic to be among the most covetable versions of the model ever made. Ed Sheeran agrees, snapping one up instantly. £125,000 (approx). At audemarspiguet.com

IWC has gone potty for ceramic this season, introducing three new designs in the chronograph range created in partnership with the US Navy's Strike Fighter Tactics Instructor Programme – better known (thanks to Tom Cruise) as Top Gun. As well as a 41mm piece in black Ceratanium, there are two 44.5 mm models – a green case and dial version called ‘Woodland’ that's inspired by the pilot's flight suits, and the one we’re gunning for, which is this white-cased effort with matching rubber strap, a colour scheme based on the winter landscape of the Lake Tahoe training area. £9,350. At IWC.com

Auction reports might be dominated by news of big-money bids for Rolex and Patek Philippe, but serious collectors will tell you that some of the finest vintage watches were made by Longines. The brand frequently dips into its astonishingly-rich archives to create modern reissues, but it has designed a completely new model to mark its 190th anniversary – albeit one replete with classic details. The 40mm case contains an automatic movement and can be had in steel (unlimited), or in rose or yellow gold (190 examples each). £2,050 (steel); £10,190 (gold). At longines.com & goldsmiths.co.uk

As well as being the official customising house for LVMH-owned brands Zenith, TAG Heuer and Bulgari, George Bamford's Bamford Watch Department has blossomed into a dial name in its own right – and there is no shortage of collaborators who want to join in the fun. The latest case of ‘X’ marking the spot is seen in BWD's partnership with irreverent Parisian watch pimper Seconde Seconde, who has enhanced the centre of the Bamford GMT watch with the addition of a tiny, stylised hand ‘flicking the Vs’ to create the ‘Bad Form’ special edition. £1,600, bamfordlondon.com & goldsmiths.co.uk

When it comes to colour combos, black ‘n’ gold is tough to outgun – and watches don't come much blacker or golder than H. Moser's latest take on its svelte Streamliner. As well as having a 40mm case and bracelet made from around 200 grams of 18 carat rose, the watch features the darkest dial you’ll ever see: because it's coated in a material called ‘Vantablack’, which it is claimed can absorb more than 99.9 percent of light. Behind that mysterious façade (and visible through the transparent caseback) hides Moser's superb HMC 804 twin-hairspring tourbillon movement – complete with solid gold rotor, naturally. £109,000. h-moser.com

If you’re looking for something that combines unusual features with a historic dial name, Baume & Mercier's latest take on its core Riviera model could be the one. The 12-sided case and four top-loading screws are different enough, but what makes this watch stand out is the transparent, mesh-pattern dial made from smoked-blue sapphire. B&M's excellent Baumatic movement lies behind, offering five days of power reserve, accuracy to minus-four or plus-six seconds a day and extreme resistance to magnetism. £3,600. At baume-et-mercier.com & goldsmiths.co.uk

Harry Winston's 'Project Z' special editions hark back to an original model launched at the (big industry) Baselworld watch show in 2004. The ‘Z’ in the title refers to the fact that cases are made from the sci-fi-sounding material Zalium – an "exclusive, dark grey alloy that is ultra-light, non-allergenic, non-corrosive and decidedly tough." The series culminated in the Project Z10, which features a skeleton dial based around a lattice-work design said to be inspired by the Manhattan Bridge close to HW's New York HQ. The original run of 300 in blue has now been followed by these 100 piece editions in funky orange and mellow yellow. £19,900. At harrywinston.com

By Adam Cheung

By Phil Hilton

By Brit Dawson

Panerai has turned its historic Luminor dive watch into a modern globetrotter's delight with this new ‘BiTempo’ version, which uses an additional hour hand with a cerulean blue arrow tip to indicate a second time zone. A smaller version of the same keeps track of the 72-hour power reserve, with low-light visibility being taken care of by the maker's classic ‘sandwich’ dial arrangement whereby ‘lume’ shines through the cut-outs. Choose from sunray blue or matt black, each with a matching alligator leather strap. And make it snappy. £9,200. At panerai.com & goldsmiths.co.uk

If there's a six-figure lump of cash burning a hole in your pocket and you fancy an heirloom watch, stop right here: the new platinum version of Lange's split-seconds chronograph is a true horological artwork that combines an understated dial with an exquisitely decorated movement featuring bridges and plates made from German silver. And at a sensible 41.2mm in diameter, it's entirely wearable – which is good, because the only reason you’ll want to take it off is to gaze at the beauty of its mechanism through the transparent glass caseback. Just 200 will be made. POA (estimate: £125,000). At alange-soehne.com

Previous Montblanc adventure watches have been inspired by land travel – but now the brand descends from the peaks and into the depths of the oceans with its first diver, the 1858 Iced Sea Automatic Date. It takes its name from the Mer de Glace, the largest glacier on Montblanc and the feature that inspired the textured dial pattern applied using an ancestral technique called gratté boisé (which seems to mean wood shaving). The unidirectional bezel has a scratch-resistant ceramic insert and is available in the same three colours as the dial – black, blue or green. £2,785, montblanc.com & goldsmiths.co.uk

By Adam Cheung

By Phil Hilton

By Brit Dawson

Avant garde maker MB&F (Maximilian Büsser & Friends) introduced this Legacy Machine Split Escapement Evo in 2021 to mark the 50th anniversary of the UAE – and it could only be bought from the brand's M.A.D.Gallery in Dubai. This new version, however, makes the model available more widely – albeit not that much more widely, as only 25 of these ice blue-dialled, titanium-cased editions will be made. Despite its exotic appearance, the watch is intended for daily wear and is even expected to be used by sporting types – hence the special FlexRing shock-absorbing case and eight-metre water resistance. £80,680. At mbandf.com

When the Hamilton Pulsar was launched back in 1972 as the world's first quartz-digital wristwatch, it carried a price tag of $2,100 – enough to buy 10 Rolex Submariners. We’ll let you digest that. Fortunately for fans of retro horology, deflation has taken its toll on the watch which Hamilton now calls the American Classic PSR (because the Pulsar name belongs to Seiko) and you can take your wrist back to the future for a fraction of what the original cost 50 years ago. The re-issue is also better made and has a clearer, hybrid LED/OLED display. What's that about the good old day? £725. At hamiltonwatch.com & goldsmiths.co.uk

If you’re seriously in the market for a Greubel Forsey you can't be merely hideously wealthy or an obsessive horophile, you have to be both. The legendary London dealer Marcus Margulies once told us that he believed Greubel Forsey made the best watches in the world in terms of finish and complication – and, well the GMT Balancier Convexe speaks for itself. Just 66 of these titanium-cased wonders will be released across the next three years, each featuring the maker's exquisitely-crafted trademark globe, which rotates in real time and is encircled by local and world time markings, backed-up by a larger world time chart engraved on the back. £330,000. At greubelforsey.com

By Adam Cheung

By Phil Hilton

By Brit Dawson

When Glashütte Original was lumped in with the six other local watch brands after the East German town of Glashütte came under Communist rule in 1949, funky-coloured dials would have been well and truly off the agenda. Free from tyrannical constraints for 30 years, the now Swatch Group-owned manufacturer happily celebrates the joyful times that passed it by – as demonstrated by the fizzing hues of its latest Seventies Chronograph Panorama Date models. Just 100 examples of this limited edition in screaming orange will be made. From £12,000. At glashuette-original.com & goldsmiths.co.uk

Fossil's Inscription watches make quite a statement with their 42 mm octagonal cases. This Amber Eco Three-Hand Date version gets a subtle gunmetal finish that contrasts nicely with the combination of a black dial and ultra-legible white indexes and hand tips (all of which are luminous). The "Amber" in the name refers to the rich colour of the excellent-quality leather strap – which looks so good, we can't help wondering whether the actual watch might be being thrown in for free. £119. At fossil.com

Bulgari watch boss and chief designer Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani has put the Roman jeweller well and truly on the map with his multiple, often record-breaking iterations of the slim but statement-making Octo Finissimo. The latest variations help mark the 10th anniversary of the Octo by introducing celebratory pink- and yellow-gold versions of the automatic model, both of which sport matching bracelets and delectable dials in chocolate brown lacquer. £37,800. At bulgari.com & goldsmiths.co.uk

By Adam Cheung

By Phil Hilton

By Brit Dawson

When the BR-05 was unveiled in 2019 it was dissed by some as a poor man's Patek Philippe Nautilus – but the ‘05 has gone on to carve its own furrow in the competitive field of integrated bracelet watches as a successful line that includes automatic, chronograph and GMT models. No one could accuse this latest variation, the Artline, of lacking originality. Inspired by the streamliner period of the ’30s, the case and bracelet are decorated with the ‘gadroon’ pattern once found on everything from aeroplanes to buses and from American diners to fridges. £4,800. At bellross.com

This Astronomia Solar Baguette Jewelry cosmic-level flex from proudly in-your-face watchmaker Jacob & Co. depicts the planets of the solar system using gemstone spheres cut with 288 facets that rotate on a trio of differential-driven arms – with Earth represented by a hand-painted, magnesium globe that doubles as a tourbillon. A glittering backdrop is formed by a rotating base of baguette-cut white diamonds, while the edge of the 44.5mm case takes the form of a sapphire crystal ‘window’ through which the madly complicated, 44-part mechanism can be observed. Not for the shy. Or skint. £761,000. At jacobandco.com

The Aikon #tide from Maurice Lacroix is among a slew of eco-friendly watches to have washed up of late. Made almost exclusively from recycled plastic and glass fibre dredged from the oceans, it is supplied in a recycled, reusable coffee cup of the same colour and material as the watch. The project was carried out in partnership with #tide, a young company that specialises in upcycling waste. Five unisex designs are available, along with five more aimed at women and three special editions. From £630.At mauricelacroix.com

By Adam Cheung

By Phil Hilton

By Brit Dawson

It's common knowledge that Blancpain's 50 Fathoms dive watch was created for the French navy – but who knew the firm also had a crack at producing a chronograph for the US air force? Cue the original ‘Air Command’, a mere dozen or so prototypes of which were made during the late ’50s. Three years ago Blancpain recreated the design in a period-correct 42.5mm size, and now the model goes ‘unisex’ with a new, 36.2mm case – that somehow seems more authentically vintage than its bigger brother. £25,800. At blancpain.com

Girard-Perregaux's Laureato luxury sports watch deserves to be bracketed with those other ’70s classics, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak and the Patek Philippe Nautilus – but it somehow gets overlooked. This latest version should attract ample attention, however: the distinctive Laureato shape has been crafted in steel to match the bracelet, hands and baton indexes, while that lustrous dial in sunray green has the legendary ‘Clous de Paris’ pattern. And stone us, it looks good. £12,200. At girard-perregaux.com & goldsmiths.co.uk

Chopard marked this year's 25th anniversary of its high-end L.U.C manufacture with three new chiming watches, the star of which is the L.U.C Full Strike Sapphire. Its case, crown and dial are cut from solid blocks of lab-grown corundum crystal which give a 360-degree view of the movement and unmatched clarity of sound. The chiming mechanism is powered by a dedicated spring barrel and has a special clutch that enables it to sound up to a dozen times on a single winding. Just five examples are out in the wild. POA. At chopard.com

By Adam Cheung

By Phil Hilton

By Brit Dawson

Hard to believe but it's already been two decades since Ulysse Nardin dropped the original Freak, which received universal praise thanks to its unconventional carousel movement that ditched regular features such as hands and a winding crown. Instead, the entire mechanism rotates beneath the crystal, marking the time by simply pointing to it. Other such mad watches have come and gone, but the Freak still seems appealingly weird – and with that dial hewn from glittering aventurine, this version is the most elegant yet. Just 99 will be made. £33,670. At ulysse-nardin.com

Martin Frei, the artist who co-founded Urwerk with Felix Baumgartner (the watchmaker, not the skydiver), once said that he came up with one of the independent brand's early concepts after ‘filling pages of sketchbooks in what was virtually a semi-hypnotic trance’. Whatever he was on, it's still working – as proven by this purple-hued version of the classic, satellite hours display 100V. £62,400. At urwerk.com

The RM 72-01 ‘Lifestyle Chronograph’ is the first Richard Mille watch to use the brand's own in-house movement – a flyback chronograph comprising a unique clutch system and an anti-shock suspension, developed so sports stars like Bubba Watson and Rafael Nada can wear theirs while driving down the fairway or smashing aces respectively. We suspect the ‘Lifestyle’ aspect in the name is there to suggest that this is a watch for everyday wear – if you’re the kind of person who can afford to live the RM lifestyle, that is. From £175,000 (approx.) in titanium. At richardmille.com

By Adam Cheung

By Phil Hilton

By Brit Dawson

Created in 1931 by watch dealer Cesar de Trey for the colonial polo players of India, the famous Reverso could fairly claim to have been the world's first, purpose-built sports watch. The case, which flips over in order to protect the dial and crystal, was designed by French engineer (remember the name) Rene-Alfred Chauvot – whose speciality was dentistry equipment. JLC's consistent top seller, the Reverso Classic can be had in more than 20 variations and in steel or precious metal. You’re not a serious watch collector without one. From £4,400. At jaeger-lecoultre.com & mrporter.com

The famous asymmetrically-lugged Arceau has been adapted in many ways since it was first penned by revered artistic director Henri d’Origny in 1978 – but this travel time version is surely one of the best iterations. The luxury house teamed with horological genius Jean-François Mojon to create this whimsical yet practical piece in which a push of a button causes the entire dial to jump from one time zone to another – and adjust itself in the process. Local time is displayed through an aperture at 12 o’clock. From £17,400 (38mm steel) and £22,270 (41mm titanium). At hermes.com

Horological milestones don't usually come cheap – but that's not the case with the landmark LCD watch from Timex, the T80. Launched in the late ’70s, it went on to become a #firstwatch for tens of millions of youngsters around the world and, following its revival in 2019, is once again selling by the bucketload as the brand releases numerous variations on the theme. This neon-pink one has got 1980s written all over it, and is probably less expensive now than it was then. £49.99. At timex.co.uk

By Adam Cheung

By Phil Hilton

By Brit Dawson

After being overlooked for decades, Zenith is garnering the recognition it has long deserved, both because its rich history is being more widely appreciated and because it seems to have finally fathomed what buyers want. Case in point, anyone dreaming of a great-looking integrated bracelet watch with a retro vibe – look to the Skyline. It's rugged, yet elegant, bristles with nice design features (check out the perforated dial) and offers the added appeal of a subdial on which a hand rotates 360 degrees every 10 seconds. A reminder that the automatic three-hander is powered by the base of Zenith's revered, tenth-of-a-second El Primero chronograph movement. £7,900. At zenith-watches.com & goldsmiths.co.uk

Now is the time to bag yourself a red hot Oris. The Swiss maker of ‘mechanical only’ watches has teamed up with Canada's Coulson Aviation, the world's leading aerial firefighting company, to create this version of its Big Crown ProPilot with a ‘fiery’ orange dial and a 3D printed, carbon fibre case topped with a DLC-coated titanium bezel. Weighing just 65g, the watch is powered by the brand's five-day automatic movement and will be made in just 1,000 examples. £3,750. At oris.ch & goldsmiths.co.uk

It's quite an event when Patek Philippe unveils an entirely new watch model, so a few jaws dropped when the wraps came off the £61,910 Reference 5326G earlier in the year. This vintage-looking piece has an unprecedented combination of annual calendar and travel time complications, while the superb ‘hobnailed’ band of its white-gold case and the grainy texture of its dial are inspired by old camera bodies. It has all the hallmarks of becoming a classic, but if you’re genuinely in the market for a classic Patek that you can actually get hold of, the Golden Ellipse is your best bet and this blue-dialled platinum version is an understated dreamboat. £46,190. At patek.com

By Adam Cheung

By Phil Hilton

By Brit Dawson

The Gerald Charles dial name was founded by the late and legendary watch designer Gerald (Charles) Genta, but is today run by a youthful CEO called Federico Ziviani. Contemporary Gerald Charles watches retain the unusual ‘Maestro’ case shape developed by Genta but the line-up of models is gradually being expanded, with the most complex piece to date being the Squelette, penned by former Audemars Piguet styling boss Octavio Garcia. Just 100 examples of the extensively skeletonised watches will be made each year. £51,800. At geraldcharles.com

Farer watches are all about adventure, and the Brit-based brand likes nothing better than to honour intrepid explorers of the past with new models. Such is the go with the distinctive copper-dialled ‘Durham’ that pays tribute to the eccentric artist and anthropologist Mary Edith Durham who travelled throughout the Balkans during the early 1900s, notably writing a definitive guide called High Albania. Farer's 38.5mm cushion-cased ‘Durham’ has a three-part case housing a tried and tested Sellita hand-wound movement, so it should be up to the most arduous of journeys. Even a trip to Durham. £895. At farer.com

The biggest watch moment of 2022 arrived in March when examples of the freshly released £207 MoonSwatch (a playful bio-ceramic homage to the Omega Speedmaster) were attracting bids of more than £3,000 on eBay. It's still hard to find a MoonSwatch in store, but be patient – SWATCH promises it is working hard to churn out the 11 designs in sufficient numbers and satisfy global demand. (The 'Mission to Uranus' version still makes us titter.) £207. At swatch.com

By Adam Cheung

By Phil Hilton

By Brit Dawson

Bremont's Audley brings the resolutely British brand that bit closer to its ambition of producing an entire watch ‘in house’ at its high-tech Henley-on-Thames facility, The Wing. The 40mm dress model has a case made at the works and containing a version of the ENG300 automatic movement that debuted last year in the limited edition ‘Longitude’ watch. The in-house ‘engines’, which are certified for accuracy using Bremont's ‘H1’ timing tests, are said to be the first such mechanisms to have been produced to scale in the UK since the 1970s. £14,995. At bremont.com & goldsmiths.co.uk

As the name implies, German jewellery house Thomas Sabo has set out to evoke the elements of nature in this 42mm watch that's powered by a trusty Japanese Miyota movement. Fire, water, air and earth offer the design cues, with a few signs of the zodiac and a polished onyx crown tip thrown in for good measure. £339. At thomassabo.com

This year marked half a century since the founding of Gucci Time, but only recently has the fashion house got truly serious about time telling – by equipping its top-of-the-range watches with high quality, Swiss mechanical movements. Inside the integrated case of the ‘25H’ lurks a micro-rotor-equipped automatic of the type used by Girard-Perregaux and Ulysse Nardin, with the latest versions of the 38mm 25H being given a lift with white dials topped by iridescent crystals tinted in pink, blue or mint green. £1,250. At gucci.com & goldsmiths.co.uk

By Adam Cheung

By Phil Hilton

By Brit Dawson

Fancy one of the watch world's design icons of the ’70s but don't want to pay Patek Philippe Nautilus/Audemars Piguet Royal Oak/Vacheron Constantin 222 money – check out Tissot's Powermatic 80. Based on a model from 1978, it has all the features of its pricier, more famous rivals (integrated bracelet, textured dial, unconventional case shape) but costs a fraction – a really tiny fraction – of the price. And you get Tissot's robust and efficient Powermatic 80 automatic movement that will last for 80 hours without winding. Twice as long as many similarly priced rivals. £580. At tissotwatches.com & goldsmiths.co.uk

The Tonda PF Micro-Rotor is Parmigiani Fleurier's hottest watch of the moment. As well as being rich in subtle details (guilloche-pattern dial, fine ‘delta’ hands, delicately-fluted bezel) it's also something of an engineering pièce de résistance – that tiny micro rotor from which it takes its name – is hewn from solid platinum and set within the movement rather than on top. This keeps the height of the mechanism down to 3mm, making for an entire watch that measures just 7.8mm thick. £18,250. At parmigiani.com

Spinnaker's locker of affordable dive watches is so diverse and impressive that it's difficult to choose a favourite – but, if forced, this superb version of the Hass automatic with ‘safety-yellow’ dial would have to be the one. It is both highly legible and of great quality, with a tried-and-tested Seiko movement and a 300-metre depth rating that marks it out as a true, fit-for-purpose tool watch. £375. At spinnaker-watches.co.uk

By Adam Cheung

By Phil Hilton

By Brit Dawson

Since its launch in 2015, the hard-as-nails I.N.O.X watch has been a Victorinox best seller. The original stainless-steel version was designed to withstand a 10-metre fall onto concrete, attack by sulphuric acid and temperatures from -57 to +71 C. This Carbon version is said to be even tougher. It's fitted with an automatic movement, a rugged rubber strap and comes with a Spartan knife in matching matte finish. "Bring it," as they say in manly circles.£820. At victorinox.com

It's not unusual for Swiss brands to up their cachet by commissioning bespoke motorcycles for display use. Raymond Weil is the latest to do so, and details from the black and bronze Triumph Bonneville it ordered from Geneva custom house Meister Engineering have inspired this new chronograph. The watch can be had in full bronze or a combination of bronze and titanium, each paired with a black dial in ‘smoke effect’ finish. Just 300 examples will be available. £3,495. At raymond-weil.co.uk & goldsmiths.co.uk

What do whales, turtles, manta rays and penguins have in common? Apart from being quite good swimmers, they’ve all featured on Seiko's Prospex Save the Ocean dive watches. Launched in 2018 and updated annually with new designs, this year, instead of creatures, there's a new trio inspired by the ice of the North Pole and Antarctica. The white-dial model harks back to a 1970 watch worn by Japan's Naomi Uemura during his two-year dog sled trip from Greenland to Alaska (must have taken plenty of treats). Re-interpretations of 1965 and 1968 watches get dark-blue and light-blue dials respectively. £1,160. At seikowatches.com & goldsmiths.co.uk

By Adam Cheung

By Phil Hilton

By Brit Dawson

A slim Piaget dress watch was an essential fit among European playboys of the late ’70s, the decade in which the ‘sports chic’ Polo was launched. After lying dormant for years, the model was revived in 2016 in 42mm, cushion-cased form – and it has never looked so good as this version which exploits the winning combo of 18-carat rose gold and a deep-green dial highlighted by the Polo's signature horizontal lines. Buy it and wear it like the carefree playboy that you are because unlike you it will only get better with age. £25,300, At piaget.com & goldsmiths.co.uk

If you don't mind having your mind ‘boggled’ every time you look at your wristwatch, Citizen's Skyhawk A-T pilot piece could be for you. Radio-controlled synchronisation with your local atomic clock makes for perfect timekeeping, while that plethora of subdials, scales, screens and read-outs is accounted for by a 1/100-second chronograph, time readings for 43 cities, a perpetual calendar, dual alarms, 99-minute countdown timer, power reserve gauge and 12/24 hour scales. And its ‘eco-drive’ technology means it never needs a battery. Bloody genius. £650. At citizenwatch.co.uk & goldsmiths.co.uk

Frederique Constant's ‘Monolithic’ manufacture movement is said to tick 10 times faster than regular clockwork watch mechanisms, a feat achieved by ditching 26 traditional components and replacing them with a minuscule oscillator, fitted with a pair of teeny balance weights. The result is a mechanism that goes back and forth 288,000 times every hour (we’re yet to verify this ourselves), thus providing impressive levels of accuracy. Originally available with only blue or silver dials, the watch can now be had in this snow-fresh white version. £4,150. At frederiqueconstant.com & goldsmiths.co.uk

By Adam Cheung

By Phil Hilton

By Brit Dawson

Long before the days of ANPR and traffic wardens being equipped with camera phones and stab vests, parking one's automobile involved slipping into a dedicated bay and slotting a small-denomination coin into its respective meter. Such devices inspired Bulova to create a ‘bullhead’ chronograph in 1973 with a parking meter-shaped subdial layout – a design that has now been, bizarrely, reproduced in a 5,000-piece limited edition. Unlike the mechanical original, this one gets a quartz movement (and costs around a tenth of the price of a genuine vintage version). £449. At bulova.com & watchshop.com

We’ve heard that wristwatches are becoming smaller and more understated – but, judging by the new Tambour, the memo has yet to reach the designers at Louis Vuitton. Measuring 46 mm in diameter (and deliciously deep in the Tambour tradition), the Graphite Race Chronograph has a dial decorated with the black and grey pattern found on LV's Damier canvas, over the top of which is a bold "V" logo in viper green – a colour replicated around the crown and on the raised signature stamped on the soft rubber strap. £6,100. At louisvuitton.com

Baller watches don't come much more statement-making than the 42mm chunk of icy lab-grown sapphire that constitutes this totally transparent Spirit of Big Bang Magic. Just 200 examples will be made, each with a ‘structured’ rubber strap that accentuates Hublot's position as the top dog of fusion watchmaking. Behind the polished and sandblasted glass case lies the brand's HUB4700 skeletonised, self-winding chronograph movement with 50 hours power reserve. £78,000. At hublot.com & goldsmiths.co.uk

By Adam Cheung

By Phil Hilton

By Brit Dawson

Not for nothing does Abraham-Louis Breguet have a rep as the OG watchmaker of all, er, time. His original pocket watches fetch millions, but the Breguet signatures of exceptional quality and exquisite finishing prevail at a fraction of the price in its modern-day wrist watches. Typical of the range is the Classique Calendar that features the off-centre dial arrangement, engine-turned decoration and distinctive hands for which the great ALB was known. From £35,400. At breguet.com & chisholmhunter.co.uk

Were the people at Boss more imaginative in naming their watches, this mean and moody number might well be dubbed ‘The Triple Black’ rather than the ‘One’ thanks to its black dial, black case and black bracelet. At 44mm in diameter and weighing more than a generously-trimmed quarter-pound burger, the ‘One’ is certainly not for the weak of wrist – but the use of a quartz movement means the price is light (and you still get a two-year guarantee). £399. At hugoboss.com & goldsmiths.co.uk

Launched in 1962, "the first scratchproof watch in the world's history" arrived in the form of the Rado DiaStar. "Jet-styled of super metal more costly than gold," it featured a case made from sintered carbide and its dial was protected by faceted sapphire glass. This 21st-century version celebrates 60 years of DiaStar, though it isn't a slavish copy. Swiss product designer Alfredo Häberli has given it a slightly different shape, finished it in shades of grey and added a crystal with six facets (one for each decade) instead of three. If unusual is your vibe, we’ve just found your new Mon-Fri watch. £1,850. At rado.com & goldsmiths.co.uk

By Adam Cheung

By Phil Hilton

By Brit Dawson

The military types of land-locked Switzerland are not well known for their maritime exploits, but during the early ’70s, Doxa was called upon to supply watches to the specialist diving units of the Swiss Army. Specifics are as hazy as the floor of Lac Leman but it seems dials were black and beige, hands were orange and cases were made from blackened steel. Having launched a limited-edition re-issue in black ceramic earlier this year (it sold out), Doxa has now unveiled two new steel versions, one with a steel bezel with black ceramic inlay, the other with a bronze bezel and green inlay. Choose from a steel bracelet or rubber strap and get a camouflage NATO-style band thrown in. £2,070. At doxawatches.com & goldsmiths.co.uk

The fact that Vacheron Constantin was founded in 1755 makes it the oldest watchmaker to have remained in continuous production. All that practice has helped VC to become the quiet king of design and finish as well a master of complications – as the superlative Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Chronograph demonstrates. The hand-wound movement contains 324 parts (process that for a second) and is finished to the Nth degree. The case is carved from solid platinum. The salmon-coloured dial is exquisite. Catch one if you can. POA. At vacheron-constantin.com

Founded in Bristol in 1846, Fears lays claim to being Britain's oldest watchmaker. There was a 50-year hiatus in production prior to 2016 when the donnish Nicholas Bowman-Scargill revived the business originally established by his great-grandfather, Edwin Fear, but who's counting? ‘Elegantly understated’ is the Fears mantra, with the signature ‘Brunswick’ now being made available in this 40mm cushion case, as well as in original 38mm form. Solid backs come as standard, but a sapphire crystal ‘display’ version can be specified at extra cost. And who doesn't like a flamingo-pink dial? £3,750. At fearswatches.com & jurawatches.co.uk

By Adam Cheung

By Phil Hilton

By Brit Dawson

Those diamond geezers at Graff have highlighted the plight of five endangered animal species in this limited edition line of GyroGraff Endangered Species watches. There's an elephant, tiger, panda, gorilla or rhino on its dial, all made using a new technique called ‘diamond marquetry’ that combines as many as 139 separate components made from a combination of polished metal and precious stones set on a background of dark blue aventurine. Price is ‘on application’, but if you have to ask… At graff.com

Hardstone watch dials were first championed by luxury brands such as Bulgari and Piaget back in the ’70s – but the cufflink kings at Tateossian have brought the look right into the 21st century and made it affordable with the Pezioso range. One version has a blue, lapis lazuli dial, but this one, featuring a solid chunk of mirror-polished tiger eye, makes more of a roar. The ultra-slim, 38mm case contains a Japanese quartz movement. Our fave is the Tiger Eye. £445. At tateossian.com

Grand Seiko launched its Evolution 9 collection in 2021 to mark 60 years since its first high-end watches were made. Aimed at younger buyers, Evolution 9 watches combine the usual GS quality and finish with more robust bracelets, bolder hands and indexes and a sleeker look overall. The original textured-dial White Birch three-handers have since been joined by dive, chronograph and GMT models. The latter features a titanium case and bracelet, Seiko's superb Spring Drive hybrid movement and a choice of black or silver dials. £10,400. At grand-seiko.com & goldsmiths.co.uk

By Adam Cheung

By Phil Hilton

By Brit Dawson

Scandinavians have always been good at being clean and green, so it's no surprise that Danish watchmaker Skagen has come up with this eco watch. The Grenen, named after a sandbar in Jutland, features a strap and case made from at least 50 percent recycled steel and is powered by solar movement. Next year, the brand has pledged to introduce a model made entirely from recycled materials and says all its traditional watches will be sustainable by 2025. £189. At skagen.com

Mondaine is the official timekeeper of the famously punctual Schweizerische Bundesbahnen – the Swiss federal railway. It had the jolly good wheeze to shrink its distinctive platform clocks down to wrist size back in 1986 and ever since, the Mondaine watch line has grown faster than a runaway loco. This latest addition to the Evo2 line-up gets a 43 mm steel case, a black dial and a strap made from vegan leather. £269. At mondaine.com

Ressence is the go-to name for anyone bored with conventional watch design. The Feather Light 8C model is the Belgian brand's most affordable offering to date – despite its beautifully crafted titanium case and fabulous dial in matt cobalt-blue. With its UFO-style domed body, case back winding and setting device, it's no less eye-catching than pricier models, and there's also that mad dial that orbits the perimeter of the case. Clockwork, but not as we know it. approx. £13,800. At ressencewatches.com

By Adam Cheung

By Phil Hilton

By Brit Dawson

An increasing number of collectors – priced out by the big-dial names – are discovering there are other great watches available which cost hundreds, not thousands. We give you the retro-fabulous products of 72-year-old Japanese dial name Orient (wholly owned by Epson, which is part of Seiko Corporation). Groovy name aside, the Neo Classic Sports has a ’70s-style block-pattern dial dripping in lume, but also features a bizarre yet appealing bezel with teeth on the inside edge. Add in a good-quality automatic movement, a screw-down caseback and 20-bar water resistance and… hang on. Surely there's a zero missing? £375. At orient-watch.com

No other watch of 2022 marked out its wearer as being a) filthy rich b) horologically well connected and c) right on trend as the special edition Patek Philippe Nautilus 5711 x Tiffany with ‘Tiffany blue’ dial. Though it retailed at just $52,635 (£46,675) the fact that only 170 were made immediately sent prices into orbit, and number one of the series was bid for a wholly unsurprising $6.5 million at Phillips (although the bidder failed to pay, leaving the watch to be bought for a reported $6.2 million by 33-year-old Patek-o-phile Zach Lu). Baller watches don't come much ballsier. POA. At tiffany.co.uk

If you want to set your loved one's heart aflutter, this insane Papillon Automate watch from Van Cleef and Arpels will do the trick. That butterfly sitting quietly on a flower beneath the crystal randomly flaps its wings, getting more energetic as the wearer's movements increase. A white-gold case with diamond-set bezel and crown, with a dial adorned with round and pear-shaped diamonds, blue, mauve and violet sapphires, mother-of-pearl and enamel keeps the price reassuringly high. £320,000. At vancleefarpels.com

By Adam Cheung

By Phil Hilton

By Brit Dawson

Since entering the game in 2015 as a maker of British-designed watches powered by Chinese movements, Marloe Watch Company has simply been getting better and better. The high quality of fit and finish belies the low price tags, and the brand now uses exclusively Swiss-made, hand-wound mechanisms. The four-model Pacific range celebrates the formative years of the jet age, with each one paying homage to a particular aspect of the new era of travel. The Pacific 76 honours the supersonic Concorde with appropriate blue dial, white indexes and red seconds-hand. £975. At marloewatchcompany.com

There are any number of steel-cased, 40 mm bracelet watches on the market – but Ball Watch Co's Engineer III Marvelight stands out from the crowd by dint of its robust build and the choice of a range of sunray dials in funky colours such as green, red and ice blue. And, as with all Ball watches, the Marvelight has a secret that's only revealed after dark in the form of 14 tiny tubes containing H3 (tritium) gas that causes the hands and indexes to glow bright in the gloom. £1,930. At ballwatch.ch & goldsmiths.co.uk

If you’re a fan of labels, Uniform Wares watches might not be for you because the firm has traditionally left its dials unnamed since creating its first watch in 2009. It allows its attractive design and functionality to shine, with the M42 our new fave. The looks you can see for yourself; the Swiss-made PreciDrive movement you can't. But it's said to be the most accurate quartz mechanism on the market, losing or gaining no more than 10 seconds per year. That's 0.02 of a second per day… good enough? From £650. At uniformwares.com

By Adam Cheung

By Phil Hilton

By Brit Dawson

Rotary seldom fails to impress in the value for money stakes and this new 40mm GS05450/05 chronograph is no exception. How it makes such a complex and well-finished case with 100m water resistance at this price is beyond our ken – especially when it's topped with a sapphire crystal, contains a decent quality dial with applied (not printed) hour markers and hangs on a custom-made integrated leather strap. Purists might eschew it for its quartz movement. But as a daily wear? Hard to beat. £289. At rotarywatches.com

Jonny Garrett founded this brand in 2016, naming it after his late grandfather – whose heroism as a Newcastle firefighter inspires the collection. The Fearless gets a textured charcoal dial and a strap made from reclaimed black firehose. Brass from a vintage fireman's helmet is set into the winding crown, while the caseback has a coloured visor that reveals a Seiko movement. Each Fearless is supplied in a three-watch roll made from soft Italian leather, with red, yellow or orange firehose straps available separately. £895. At williamwoodwatches.com

The five-year partnership between Roger Dubuis and Lamborghini has proved to be pretty fruitful – probably because neither brand makes objects for shy, retiring types. While the watches seem to be challenging the cars for brashness, there's brains there too. They are brilliantly engineered, and cleverly incorporate materials, features and techniques seen on real Lambos, even down to the use of automotive paint, carbon fibre and NAC coating. If you like watches to be as rowdy as cars, pull in here for this Excalibur Spider Huracan ST EVO 2. £49,200. At rogerdubuis.com

By Adam Cheung

By Phil Hilton

By Brit Dawson

The fact that Zero West is based in a Hampshire boathouse where bodywork for Vanwall racing cars and fuselages for Spitfire fighters were once made must figure in the brand's enthusiasm for producing watches linked to automobiles and aviation. The new DB-1 (three hand) and DB-2 (chronograph) Lancaster models pay tribute to the crews who bombed the Sorpe Dam during the celebrated Dambusters raid of 1943. Each one contains a metal disc salvaged from Dambuster ED825 – which survived the raid but crashed in France seven months later after being hit by anti-aircraft fire and ploughing into a hillside. From £3,500. At zerowest.watch

Chaumet might be best known for its jewellery, but it has been in the watch game for 240 years after being commissioned to make its first timepiece by Empress Joséphine's son, Eugène. Big into his watches, was big Euge. In terms of modern-day men's watches, however, Chaumet has cultivated but one model for decades – the cushion-cased Dandy, the shape of which is said to have been inspired by the 140-carat Regent diamond (on display in the Louvre). The 38mm model, with rich blue dial, is hard to beat for elegance. £6,240. At chaumet.com

Ever wondered what the significance of ‘J12’ is in the name of this ground-breaking watch designed at the dawn of the millennium by Chanel's late artistic director Jacques Helleu? The answer is boats – Helleu was a sailing fanatic and took the name from the elegant, 12-feet long J-class America's Cup racing yachts of the ’20s and ‘30s. The watch proved to be a smash-hit and has since been made in dozens of variations. But we recommend either a 38mm or 41mm three-hander in black ceramic – they’re the closest to Helleu's original. £6,500. At chanel.com

By Adam Cheung

By Phil Hilton

By Brit Dawson

This Manero Flyback is the kind of watch your grandad would have worn in his surprisingly fly younger years. The superbly-executed vintage-style chronograph can be had in 13 different designs and in cases of steel or gold, all containing the automatic, flyback chronograph movement that can be seen in all its glory through the sapphire crystal back. Old school horological cool – Carl F. Bucherer has been around since 1888 – doesn't get much better. From £5,300. At carl-f-bucherer.com

This ultra-tough DS Super PH500M dive watch has its roots in a model launched in 1969 and worn by four scientists who lived in the Tektite 1 underwater laboratory off the U.S. Virgin Islands for a record 58 days before resurfacing. The modern-day version is water resistant down to 500 metres and meets the ISO 6425 standard for dive watches, with timing being taken care of by Certina's Powermatic 80 movement (80 hours of power reserve and an anti-magnetic Nivachron balance spring). Sounds expensive? No, it's a Certina. £795–£835. At certina.co.uk

French brand Michel Herbelin (now just Herbelin) was launched in 1947 and has been going strong ever since – with 10 million-plus watches made and sold to date. The Cap Camarat harks back to a ’70s original named after the celebrated cape near St.-Tropez, famed for the lighthouse that stands 130 metres above the water. A revised, three-hand version introduced in 2018 was extremely popular, prompting the arrival of this scratch-resistant, quartz-powered chronograph. £675. At herbelin.com

By Adam Cheung

By Phil Hilton

By Brit Dawson

One of top watch e-tailer Christopher Ward's signature models has long been the Trident Pro 600, a professional dive watch that has been incrementally improven over the years to create the current ‘MK3’ version. The Trident Pro 300 is a slimmer, lighter, daily-wear version of the 600 that, with a choice of 38mm, 40mm and 42mm case sizes and four dial colours, is intended to bring Trident style up to the surface and onto the street. From £705. At christopherward.com

Avi-8's new Hawker Hurricane model pays tribute to Battle of Britain pilot Arthur ‘Taffy’ Clowes who scored at least a dozen kills while flying with the RAF's Cambridgeshire-based Number One squadron. All the classic pilot watch features are there (onion crown, 46mm case, ‘Type B’ Flieger markings), but Avi-8 has also added a subtle camo pattern to the dial and marked it with Clowes's aircraft code at six o’clock. Despite his prowess in the cockpit, Clowes had to cut short his flying career in 1943 after losing an eye – a result of high jinx in the officer's mess. From £295. At avi-8.co.uk

Correct us if we’re wrong (and we’re sure you will) but French brand Briston seems to be the only significant watchmaker to offer cases made from acetate, the material most commonly associated with the frames of spectacles and sunglasses. This version of the Streamliner Adventure (Swing Acetate Blue) digi-analogue model gets a blue 44mm case and a jazzy pop-art dial with a Super-LumiNova coating that helps it to carry on standing out after dark.£345. At briston-watches.com

By Adam Cheung

By Phil Hilton

By Brit Dawson

Junghans is based in the Black Forest town of Schramberg where it was once the largest producer of clocks in the world, churning out three million per year at its peak. Back in 1972, the German brand also became one of the official timekeepers of the Munich Olympic Games, for which it made a decidedly of-the-era ‘bullhead’ chronograph – and to mark the 50th anniversary of the occasion it has created a 1972 Competition edition of 1,972 new ones that are dead ringers of the original. £2,390. At junghans.de

Founded in Glashütte, East Germany just two months after the fall of the Berlin wall, Nomos (meaning ‘rule’ in Greek) released its first watches in 1992. The four original model lines – Tangente, Orion, Ludwig and Tetra – have since grown to 13, the highlight being this prize-winning Metro range created by Berlin-based designer and art professor Mark Braun. Powered by the slim DUW 3001 in-house movement, the ‘Silvercut’ version features a silver, textured dial with hours marked by simple black or red dots, while the hand shape (intentionally) looks remarkably like the Empire State Building. From £3,380. At nomos-glashuette.com & goldsmiths.co.uk

Six years after reviving the Vertex dial name founded by his grandfather, Don Cochrane has launched the brand's first dive watch – and to say it's up to spec is an understatement. It's an absolute banger. Though officially rated to a depth of 600 metres, the AquaLion has been tested to 750 metres in accordance with the ISO 6425 professional dive watch standard. It features dial and bezel markings made from ultimate ‘X1 Grade’ Super-Luminova, has a screw-down crown and a unidirectional, ceramic bezel modelled on a Bren gun sight adjuster. From £2,850. At vertex-watches.com

By Adam Cheung

By Phil Hilton

By Brit Dawson

It may have been a long time coming, but Google's very own smartwatch has finally arrived. Smooth, round and tactile, it features a touch-sensitive display as well as a crown that can be used both for scrolling and to launch features. The high-res screen is as crisp as it gets and, because Google owns FitBit, you get the latter's fitness tracker functions too. A flush-fit button can be pressed to summon the voice-activated ‘Google Assistant.’ £339. At store.google.com

By Thor Svaboe

By Simon de Burton

By Finlay Renwick

By Mike Christensen

By Cam Wolf

By Mike Christensen